Saturday, 20 July 2013

Romanians Summit Nanga Parbat 8125-M

Zsolt Torok (Leader) during briefing at Alpine
Club of Pakistan

Today, July 19, 2013, Romanian team consists of Zsolt Torok, Marius Gane, Aurel Salasan and Teo Vlad (who still climbing at 17:00 GMT), managed in the premiere for ROMANIA to climb on Nanga Parbat on Schell route, Rupal face. Didn’t use supplemental oxygen or Sherpas, they equipping the full route alone, being the only expedition on the mountain
Zsolt with Aurel and Teo started rising at the rate of 7500 m, at 4 in the morning, but Marius started at 1 o’clock, he was the first one who reached the summit, followed by Aurel and then Zsolt. Teo is still climbing and is about one hour to the top.
For he’s retire Zsolt have with him bivouac foil, primus and food, only in case of need, the intention is to get back to the tent at 7500 m. Weather is good, less wind, and tonight will be light and moonlight.
When I talked to him on the phone was very happy and he described me the dream landscape “as from plane” with great clouds and in the distance saw the K2 peak, where he was in 2010.
Marius and Aurel are already below and Teo depending on how he moved, it is possible to make a bivouac or return down to the camp at 7500 m.
Thanks to all who were involved in solving our climbers security, Government of Pakistan, Ministry of Foreign Affairs and in particular to Mr. Emilian Ion – Romanian Ambassador to Islamabad that always interested for the team situation .
We also thank all those who have been with our team thinking and encouraging messages!
We thank our sponsors and all those who support this expedition!

Previous Story
Romanian Nanga Parbat Expedition 2013

The Romanian Nanga Parbat Expedition led by Mr Zslot Torok, a mountain guide by profession was briefed by President ACP in the ACP office on 7th June 2013. The expedition, which comprised of five members, plans attempting Nanga Parbat from Rupal face ie, the East wall along the SSE pillar. President ACP, while briefing checked the grades of climb and their strategy to tackle the pillar. He also briefed the expedition about the earlier attempts made on this route which is considered very difficult. During the briefing it transpired that the expedition has not arranged for their Air Rescue cover with Askari Aviation and are relying on their mountain guide insurance. The President ACP emphasised that all mountaineers should arrange Air Rescue cover from Askari Aviation as problems are faced during emergencies which has happned in number of cases in the past. In case of non payment of prior Air rescue cover, Askari Aviation is not obliged to provide the services when required. The expedition agreed to send a copy of their guide insurance which covers Air Rescue. They were also advised on the protection of the environments around the Rupal BC as well on the higher camps.